Monday, April 28, 2008

Welcome


View from this morning's run up 'the pinnacle' (our pet name for this small mountain just outside Mbabane). Today's participants: Floriza Gennari, Richard Pittman, and me

If you are a first-time visitor to this site, please note that there are several labels that help categorize my entries over the past year so that you can pick out what you are most interested in. If unsure where to start, the pediatric HIV "Patient encounter" narratives are a good place.

-Ryan

Sunday, April 27, 2008

One hundred and one Swaziland destinations - #24: "Gone Rural"

http://www.goneruralswazi.com/

Based on a microenterprise empowerment model, this non-profit, shop-based collection of Swazi handicrafts is a popular destination for gift-seekers. While all souvenirs bought in Swaziland will no doubt support someone in need, this project does so deliberately. Their prices are not the lowest, but their quality is high. They have some of the nicest local products I have seen here, especially those that derive from reeds.

Well, I should say that “reed” is not the correct word for the long, rigid grass used to make these products. It is a type of tall grass, and there are several versions that grow wild here in Swaziland. After an extensive discussion with the staff at the coffee shop from where I write, they wrote down three Swazi words that have no clear English translation but represent the three primary types of reeds/grass that is used to make these decorative souvenirs. (lukhwane, ncoboza, lukindzi)

The inventory at Gone Rural is both from pragmatic and artistic. The craftsmanship that turns wild reed-grass into art (the collecting, dyeing, weaving, tieing, etc) is impressive. These are more than handicrafts. They are a population's livelihood (>700 ruralwomen contribute to the inventory).

The origins and the product are simple. The struggle it represents is anything but.

Gone Rural Swaziland

Sunday, April 13, 2008

One hundred and one Swaziland destinations - #23: "House on Fire"


The back door to HoF...as seen from Melandelas Restaurant when the sun is up.

Think eclectic soapstone architecture and good music surrounded by cane fields. That is House on Fire. After dark on a weekend (way after dark usually), it might best be described as a hippy Disneyland (drug-free, of course). Open pit fires, a diverse crowd, a full bar, a tiered dance floor, and some of South Africa’s best DJs and bands. "HoF" is by far the heaviest hitter in Swazi nightlife. For last year's Bushfire festival (will post related pics soon), an outdoor stage was built, and in the upcoming months alone Freshly Ground and Johnny Kleg (two of South Africa's finest) are playing.


The venue is located in Malkerns, <30 href="http://www.house-on-fire.com/">www.house-on-fire.com/)


HoF's 'stonework', up close.


The view from the back lawn of HoF, by day. Also beautiful at night.


A traditional Swazi hut, behind HoF, near Melandelas.

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Friday, April 04, 2008

One hundred and one Swaziland destinations...revisited

A friend of mine from pediatrics residency, Dr. Dan Vostrejs, is hoping to move to Swaziland soon. He recently told me that my blog was a handy reference as he tailored his pre-arrival expectations. His comment made me realize how neglectful I have been in meeting my goal of "101 Swaziland destination" posts.

While this is not a tourist site (most of my posts relate to my clinical and cultural experiences here), I receive a few emails a month from readers planning a trip to Swaz, and I always find myself typing out the same list of recommended activities. Well, in the upcoming weeks, as I get re-settled in Botswana (and begin to blog from there), I am not only going to grow (perhaps even complete) my list of 101 Swazi destinations, but I am going to try and rank them in some useful way.

Swaziland, after all, is small, with plenty of low-hanging tourist fruit both within its borders and nearby, but there are few practical guides for those seeking them out. So, check out the Swaziland destinations label and, as always, stay tuned for more.

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Ryan's list of useful HIV websites



It just occurred to me that it might be a good idea to put together a list of HIV websites that I have found useful while working in Africa. This is by no means a comprehensive list. Let me know if I have left good ones out.

Baylor International Pediatric AIDS Initiative (BIPAI) website/
Contains links to complete our HIV Curriculum for the Health Professional, our
Pediatric HIV Pictoral Atlas and other Educational Resources.

ICAP News and Resources links International Center for AIDS Care and Treatment Programs (ICAP) summarizes recent press releases and media coverage. http://www.columbia-icap.org/resources/ is even better (the "pediatric resources" link is rich with excellent references and tools). Thanks Floriza!

ITECH Clinical Training Materials Database
Great for putting trainings together. They post tools from several orgs that are pretty easy to search.

HIV Insite
Comprehensive, up-to-date information on HIV/AIDS treatment, prevention, and policy from the University of California San Francisco. They also have a page with
links to recent HIV-related national and int’l guidelines.

Kaiser Daily HIV/AIDS Report
An excellent daily HIV/AIDS news summary from the Kaiser Famliy Foundation.

Medical News Today
A good summary of HIV/AIDS-related news, borrowing heavily from the Kaiser Daily Report above.

Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation Newsroom
Summary of recent news.


Clinton Foundation Media Center
Another source for summaries of HIV news.

International AIDS Alliance Publication Search Page
Allows searching for country-specific or topic-specific information.

www.aidsmap.com
General info links to the following:
news, treatment & care, hiv worldwide, living with hiv, preventing hiv, organisations, hiv basics and more.


Friday, March 21, 2008

What am I up to? (January-March, 2008)


Yours most truly, in my BIPAI office in Houston, Texas.

For the past two and a half months, I have been living and working in Houston at BIPAI headquarters. My office is on the 12h floor of the dapper Baylor-affiliated Texas Children’s Hospital.

For those new to this site, BIPAI stands for “Baylor International Pediatric AIDS Initiative” and it is this Initiative’s objective to keep the HIV-uninfected uninfected and to keep the HIV-infected alive. For about a year and a half (from August, 2006 to December 2007 that is), I lived in Swaziland and took on that objective. I did this as one of several dozen Pediatric AIDS Corps physicians throughout the sub-continent.

The job was spectacular. Spend a few minutes looking over this blog and you will get an idea of just how much I loved it. Yes, there were frustrations. Many of these related to my wishing that I could do and be more for that troubled Kingdom’s children. My efforts seemed too too little, and I was reminded daily how itty bitty Ryan Phelps was in the face of a devastating global epidemic. That was by far the most frustrating aspect of the job.

That, however, is not why I am currently at BIPAI headquarters. There are several reasons (I am a 'Texan' after all), but I never equated being but one person with being insignificant. On the contrary. Hundreds of children (perhaps more) who would be dead are alive, and I played a part in their survival. Granted, I played a small part, but we are talking about children. Helping but one is big. Very big.

I continue to play my role here in Houston, where I am helping to cover the Baylor Retrovirology Section’s clinical services, among other things. The time has been rich and perspective-lending. I plan to share more about my time here in Houston (and those new perspectives) in the weeks ahead, even as I head back to Africa.

In early April, Botswana will become my home, and from there I will continue to share stories as long as stories come my way and time allows.

I am about to check the availabiliy of the website "Pediatrician in Botswana"... or maybe "Pediatrician in Africa"?

Please do stay tuned.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008


Scabies in an immunocompromised baby.

There is an interesting article in this week’s New York Times, titled “The Price of Beauty: For Top Medical Students, an Attractive Field .

Yesterday, I think, was the day when medical students here in the USA matched into residency positions for specialty training.

The article summarizes the efforts of two Harvard medical students to match in a dermatology residency. It outlines their background, the reasons for their wanting to enter the field, etc.

The article points out that of late an increasing number of the medical students with the highest scores and honors are becoming dermatologists and plastic surgeons. One excerpt reads, “The vogue for such specialties is part of a migration of a top tier of American medical students from branches of health care that manage major diseases toward specialties that improve the lives of patients…”,

Of course, most all disease is major when examined from the perspective of the diseased, and life improvement is undeniably good. Surviving and surviving well is and will forever remain a most worthy goal, and helping others do so a most worthy cause.

It follows that dermatology, like all fields in medicine, offers real opportunity to help sick people and is therefore a great line of work.

In the article, one of the soon-to-be dermatologists was not so eager to generalize “The No. 1 thing that is going to save your life is the humdrum preventative stuff like blood pressure and cholesterol,” he said, “But there is not a lot of respect for doctors who do that because anyone can get into it. But if you are an expert where no one else is, like the eye or the skin, your input is valued.

Hmmm.

“Humdrum preventative stuff”? What an unfortunate quote. Is dermatology somehow less preventative (cancer?) or repetitious (acne?) than general medicine? I never thought so.

The idea that “there is not a lot of respect for doctors who do [the stuff]” makes me wince. Is not every cure necessitated by a missed opportunity at prevention? Personally, I prefer low cholesterol to bypass surgery.

As for the assertion that, “Anyone can get into [the stuff]”, I would point out that there are several kind, smart folks in the world that want to be doctors but cannot.

Until recently, I worked as a pediatric HIV doctor in Swaziland. There are many “major diseases” there. There is no medical school in the country, and, before 2006, there was not one public sector pediatrician. To put it simply, Swazi children suffer and die all the time for lack of access to medical doctors and medical care.

Their travails do not stop there. Swazi children have little or no access to public schooling, and most children of the Swazi countryside will never learn to read. Medical school, I would say, is quite out of the question.

I wish this were not true, because there are entirely too few doctors (of any specialty) in Africa. Almost all of the health care professionals working there are undertrained, underpaid, and overworked. They fight hard and their patients die anyway so they often burn out early and sometimes, by no fault of their own, find it more and more difficult to care.

The organization with which I work—the Baylor International Pediatric AIDS Initiative—is doing its part to help address this workforce crisis. BIPAI is placing doctors on the ground and is heavily invested in training health professionals around Africa Wherever possible, BIPAI focuses on task shifting. In other words, it is part of my job to help ensure that general nurses and other health professionals learn to do as much of what I do as possible. Pediatric HIV care, while complicated, does not require an MD. I can only hope that some day I will wake up to find my skills commonplace and my role in Africa obsolete. This would mean healthier kids.

Unfortunately, the day when I am to wake up and find myself not needed is far away.

In any case, I am proud that it is my job to help prevent and (if unable to prevent) treat all-too-common illnesses. I am equally proud to help others learn and take over my job.

I am not quoting the medical student in the NYT story to pick on him. I am certain that he is well-meaning. I do not blame him for seeking respect, for it goes without saying that everyone seeks a modicum of some third party’s esteem. Even respect for respect’s sake is no doubt an attractive indulgence. (As is money.)

I just wanted to point out two things that I think all aspiring doctors should know:

(1) Remuneration and perceptions of prestige aside, every job has an element of the humdrum. One must find something that he or she can do ten thousand times and still find meaningful.

(2) Not everybody gets to be a doctor…or a nurse…or a public health specialist…or a community health worker. For those that do, the health profession is a unique and monumental opportunity.

So, as long as my blood pressure and cholesterol allow my heart to keep beating and my skin protects me from the elements, I will do my best not to thwart this opportunity.

Despite the tone and questionable content of the article, I hope that the brightest American medical students will do the same.

Swaziland in pictures

I really enjoyed this short photo collection posted by a previous Peace Corps volunteer in Swaziland. See link below.

Kingdom of Swaziland, in pictures

Monday, January 07, 2008

If you are planning a visit to Swaziland, read this

One of Swaziland's tens of thousands of orphans. (www.anamericaninpretoria.blogspot.com)

I reread the Swaziland National Vulnerability Assessment today, and was struck by how nicely it summarizes several of Swaziland's challenges. Have a look.

Friday, January 04, 2008

Stories about Sipho - A guest-blog patient encounter, continued



I just noticed that the (BLOG) RED posted parts 3 and 4 of a patient narrative that I wrote a few weeks back.

Have a look:
(BLOG) RED: Stories about Sipho, Part 3
(BLOG) RED: Stories about Sipho, Part 4

And if you want to start from chapter one:
(BLOG) RED: Stories about Sipho, Part 1
(BLOG) RED: Stories about Sipho, Part 2

Tuesday, January 01, 2008

Happy 2008.


Swazi children.

May we make the most of it.

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Where have all the Swazi's gone? - Recent media



"Where have all the Swazi's gone?" is the title of a recent article from Toronto's Globe and Mail, which discusses Swaziland's recent census results. According to the census, Swaziland has 300,000 fewer people than predicted by pre-HIV growth rates.

The article goes on to describe the "toxic mix" of factors that has fueled the country's HIV epidemic. Examples of such factors are:
- a culture that "condones, even encourages" promiscuity and polygamy among men
- a culture that denies women the right to negotiate condom use
- a "limited economy" that relies on sending men to work in South Africa for long periods of time
- a king with several wives who has denied the magnitude of the problem
- the country's understaffed and underfunded health system

The result: Swaziland is shrinking, and 26% of adults and 49% of young women between the ages of 25 and 29 are HIV positive.

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Season's Greetings



There are many 'things' to be mindful of this season as we give our gifts and make our resolutions. Click here for some examples.

See the following post for others.

Friday, December 21, 2007

For those children not nestled all snug in their beds


Siphelele, on Young Heroes waiting list

I rarely solicit on this website. When I do, it is for Young Heroes, an organization that provides direct assistance to orphans in Swaziland. For example, you can sponsor Siphelele, above, who is six years old and not currently in school. See the website for photos of other unsponsored children.

Please consider sponsoring a child as a holiday gift. 100% of your donation goes to the family in need. Zero % goes to admin. Yes, zero.




I have posted links to my previous entries on this worthy organization below.

Parentless children with nothing to lose
Ryan's birthday wish
An offer of solace and hope

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Drawn - A anonymous Swazi child

Sipho (pictured standing below) walked into the clinic office where I was working a few weeks back and told me he had something to show me. He took me down to the first floor where two carbon pencil sketches had recently been hanged. The girl looked familiar, and he confirmed that I had taken the original photos (also attached below) on my way back from St Phillips. The girl (of about 4 years old) was carrying a bucket of water down a long dirt road in rural Swaziland, and this made an impression on me. Sipho, the artist, was similarly taken by the child, and drew her. A very nice job, Sipho.




Sipho and his two sketches.




Anonymous Swazi child.


Anonymous Swazi child 2.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Have difficult-to-shop-for-relatives? Here is a humane gift idea: support a Swazi orphan



This misspelled poster, created by rural community health workers at a recent Baylor-sponsored pediatric HIV training, made an impact on me.

I wish that 'human' and 'humane' had similar meanings, but they do not...at least not here in Swaziland.

Swaziland has the world's highest rate of HIV infection. The disease is filling local cemeteries and creating a generation of orphans, nearly 70,000 of them. The small kingdom has ~15,000 child-headed households.

As regular readers of this blog know, I have found great meaning in helping restore dignity to the lives of some of these children. My role is small, but I believe in it.

As you plan for the upcoming season of giving, you can play a role too.

Please check out the following links for to learn how to support local Swazi children orphaned by HIV:
www.youngheroes.org.sz/
Parentless children with nothing to lose (previous blog entry)
Ryan's birthday wish (previous blog entry)

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Tacos in Swaziland - Cultural encounter series (4 of 10)


Treasure, Anne, an Mlingisi eating their first taco.

There are no tacos in Swaziland. There are no Taco Bells, Taco Buenos, Taco Cabanas, or for that matter any taquerias, taco stands, taco trucks or taco shacks named Taco Something.

There is a place downtown named Pablos with a desert cactus on the sign, but they serve burgers.

Well, I recently found taco shells at the local grocery store. I do not know if there was a supply chain routing error or if I just got lucky, but there they were. I believed they were "El Paso" brand.

I made that tacos that night for dinner, so many in fact that I had seven extra, which I brought to work the following day. I sat down in the kitchen to enjoy one, and handed out the others to the next six Swazi colleagues that happened to drop by the kitchen.

None of them had ever heard of a taco or seen anything like it.

Here were some of their comments:
"Oooh. It is sooo nice."
"So, doc, is this really what they eat in Texas?"
"What is it again? A teekos?"
"How do I do it? Do I hold it like this?"
"You really have to share the recipe."
"I like Mex-Tex. I must visit some time."
"Oh! It tastes just like Doritos."

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Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Senzo and the doll - A patient encounter


Dolls in Exam Room 8

Senzo was pretending to breastfeed a doll when I walked in the exam room. He sat beside his mother and infant sister, holding the head of the stuffed toy firmly to his tummy. Occasionally, he would tug at his jacket to try to move it out of the hungry doll’s way.

He looked up at me gave me one of those hey-look-at-me-look-what-I-am-doing looks.

“Aren’t you going to be a good big brother!” I dutifully told him in response. He did not understand a single word of English, but his smile suggested that he understood the sentiment.

Senzo wore rainbow-patterned flipflops, baggy corduroy pants, and a grey and maroon sweatshirt. He was small but bouncy.

When I examined him, he seemed no less excited than if I had been passing out candy dressed up as Disney’s Mickey Mouse. He watched every move with amazement.

Watching the child watch me, I too felt amazed. Senzo was one of Baylor’s many success stories here in Swaziland. When Senzo was a year old, his CD4 was below 500. Now, thanks to a few pills and careful follow-up, his count is nearly four times that, well within the normal range.
After refilling Senzo’s ARVs, I turned to his mom. "Are you going to get Senzo’s little sister tested?" I asked.

“Yes. Next time I am at the clinic,” the mom replied.

“Good. If the baby tests positive, we will take very good care of her, just like we have taken very good care of Senzo.”

Thursday, December 06, 2007

One hundred and one Swaziland destinations - #22: "The Swazi cultural village"

I recently took a trip to the Swazi Cultural Village about twenty minutes east of Mbabane, where one can tour a traditional Swazi village and see dancing. Swazi dance is similar to Zulu dance, with singing, drumming, whistling, alternating kicks, stomping, and plenty more. A true feast for the senses.

The link below will take you to a very short video clip. (The Swazi internet connection encourages brevity.)

Swaziland cultural dance

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Wednesday, December 05, 2007

One hundred and one Swaziland destinations - #21 The weaver birds

chandra.as.utexas.edu


The weaver birds are back in Swaziland after a wintertime hiatus. So are their pendulous, seemlingly precarious abodes.

See this YouTube video for some brief video footage of their nests, and see the two links below for my previous weaver-bird-inspired entries:
A brief encounter with a weaver bird
So, here I am - An introduction

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Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Why I love my job - Quote 20 of 20

“He is gaining weight. He is eating too much. His stomach is too big!”

This was the response when I asked how Sinethemba’s mother how her son was doing.

His belly, medically speaking, was not actually “too big”; it was just no longer a concavity beneath his protruding ribs, as it had been before ARVs.

It now looked like a two year-old’s belly should look: convex.

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Monday, November 26, 2007

Why I love my job - Quote 19 of 20

“Buya.”

“Buya,” loosely translated, means “come.”

The 2 year-old girl in pink who was supposed to "buya" was carrying a gigantic bag of puffed corn that, if empty, might be able to contain her. She was shoveling the junk food into her small mouth with noteworthy determination.


When her brother said this word, the girl protested but did not resist too vigorously, for fear of spilling. With some degree of effort, the boy, about 4 years old, managed to pick her up and carry her toward the phlebotomy room. (She did not know where she was heading, or perhaps she woud have deprioritized her prized salty snack.)

The brother would have had no chance of lifting her had her growth not been stunted by illness. Undersized children are all too commonplace in a pediatric HIV clinic.The family-sized bag of corn will no doubt add some plump. A mouthful may even make the blood draw hurt less.

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Friday, November 23, 2007

Jabu’s mother - A patient encounter


www.stjoan.com

Jabu’s mother held the off-white white face cloth up to her eyes to hide her tears. Her husband died of AIDS and TB three days ago, and I had just told her that her HIV+ nine month old might have TB.

“Until we are sure that your daughter does not have TB, it is dangerous to start the ARVs,” I explained to her.

“But she needs ARVs,” the mom responded. She was absolutely right, and I told her this.

Jabu’s mother knew that if her husband had received ARVs earlier, she would not be a widow. She did not understand that starting ARVs in a child with an active TB infection is life-threatening.

Her mother-daughter family was now a family of two, and there is really no such thing as a family of one, so cutting corners was not an option. I explained this to the mother, and she understood.

Jabu’s mother supports her daughter by sewing in a clothing factory. She dressed the part, with an elegant pastel green blouse and flowing, floral-patterned black skirt. She wore a solemn, proud expression, even as she mourned the very recent loss of her husband. Every 15-20 seconds, she would move her small towel to her face to absorb tears and hide pain. She pressed the cloth firmly against her face with the index fingers of both hands.

Jabu is scheduled to get an x-ray tomorrow and come to clinic on Monday, after her father’s weekend funeral. If the film is clear, we will start ARVs that day. If it is not, she will receive TB treatment for 1-2 months and then start highly active antiretroviral therapy.

I reviewed this plan with the mother and gave her bus fare for the return trip to clinic, for funerals are expensive and running a sewing machine in Swaziland pays little, no matter how fashionable and valuable the product.

While it is not my practice to hand out money to patients, no mother should have to worry about how she is going to scrape together three and a half dollars while burying her husband.

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Thursday, November 22, 2007

Why I love my job - Quote 18 of 20

Sisana, 60yo grandmother of 4yo Sindiswa: “My right arm hurts.”

Me: “Where does it hurt?”

Sisana: “Here.” She ran her hand over her right arm, slowly, from shoulder to wrist.

Me: “When does it hurt?”

Sisana: “When I plow the family fields.”

--

For most all Swazis, Swaziland is not an easy place to live. Without the courage and vitality of Swaziland’s grandmothers, hope would wear thin.

See also these previously posted narratives featuring this admirable group of women:
Ticklish - A patient encounter
Broth, no bread – A patient encounter
An old woman is looking for you – A patient encounter
Happy Mothers’ Day from Swaziland, with love

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Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Uncertainty - A patient encounter

I picked up my first file of the day around 8am this morning.

The facesheet read, “URGENT. Child in ER.”

Our clinic “emergency room” is set up to stabilize the very sick before sending them to the hospital.

The hospital was exactly what the patient in the ER needed. She had lost 1.2 kg over the previous month, which unfortunately was nearly one fifth of her total weight. She was lying on her back on a stretcher in the middle of the room. She had scabs lining her lips.

Her father told us that, though eating was painful, she had been eating. This was certainly good news.

“But…,” the father continued, “She vomits everything.”

He pronounced the word everything slowly, emphasizing the word’s totality.

“Eev-err-eee-thing.”

This explained the weight loss.

I looked at the child, and the child looked at me. Her crusted lips tensed and her eyebrows wrinkled a bit, then she began to make a soft, humming noise each time she exhaled. It resembled the monotonic whir of a laptop’s cooling fan, or the maybe the sound of a carpenter’s rotary power-saw a few houses down.

The girl was crying. Rather, she was trying to cry, but was too weak to do so convincingly. I do not know if she was asking for help or telling me to buzz off.

I knew that I could not do both.

We were unable to send the child to the hospital. The father refused. The reason for this was simple: there was nobody to stay with the child on the ward. (Because of staff shortages, admitted children without caregivers often receive inadequate inpatient care.)

We gave the child a shot of broad-spectrum antibiotics, some milk-based formula designed for severely malnourished children, and sent the child home. She is scheduled to return first thing in the morning.

I tell myself that we did not send the child home to die but, to be honest, I am not sure that the child will be back tomorrow.

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